The short version: write down the litter detail, the exact feeding portions, and where the cat hides — then add one line saying that a cat who has not eaten for 24 hours, or a male cat straining in the box, needs a vet rather than a text message. Those two are the ones that turn into emergencies while a sitter waits to be sure.

Cats hide their needs well, which is exactly why a sitter brief matters. A cat will not pester a stranger for food or company; it will simply withdraw, and a sitter who does not know the baseline cannot tell "normal aloof" from "something is wrong."

Sitting a different animal?
This checklist is tuned for cats. For other species, see Rabbits, Birds, Reptiles, Dogs, or the general pet sitter checklist.

Litter, the non-negotiable

Litter is the single most important line in a cat sitter brief. Write the box location(s), the litter type, how often to scoop (at least daily), and where the spare litter lives. A dirty box is the fastest way to a cat that stops using it — and to a mess the sitter discovers too late.

Litter brief
  • Where the box is — and any second box.
  • Litter type and brand — cats are picky; do not switch.
  • Scoop daily; full change schedule if it is a long stay.
  • Where spare litter and bags are stored.

Feeding & water

Note wet vs. dry, the exact portion, and the schedule. Many cats eat small meals; say so. Flag any food the cat begs for but should not have. Keep water fresh and mention if your cat prefers a fountain or a specific bowl — cats are surprisingly particular about how they drink.

Hiding & behavior

Tell the sitter where your cat hides and that it is normal. A cat that vanishes under the bed for the first day is not in distress — it is being a cat. The brief should say "she will hide; do not chase her; she comes out at night" so the sitter does not panic or, worse, drag the cat out.

When to call the vet

These are the signs a sitter should never wait on:

  • Not eating for 24 hours. In cats, this can escalate quickly — it is not "wait and see."
  • Straining in the litter box with little or no output, especially in male cats — a possible urinary blockage and a true emergency.
  • Repeated vomiting or hiding combined with not eating.

What to do, and when

Put this on the brief as a table rather than a paragraph. A sitter under pressure reads a row, not an essay.

What the sitter seesWhat to doWhy the timing matters
Male cat going in and out of the box, straining, little or nothing produced, cryingGo now. Do not wait for a call backA blocked bladder is a true emergency and can become fatal within a day. Male cats are far more prone to it
Not eaten anything for 24 hoursGo nowCats can develop hepatic lipidosis from short fasts, and overweight cats are most at risk. This is not a wait-and-see
Breathing with an open mouth, or fast shallow breathing at restGo nowCats almost never pant. Open-mouth breathing in a resting cat is not normal
Sudden inability to use the back legs, crying, cold back pawsGo nowA clot presents this way and is intensely painful
Repeated vomiting, or vomiting plus hiding and not eatingCall me, then vet the same dayOne hairball is normal; the combination is the signal
Hiding on day one, eating overnight, litter being usedNote it. Nothing to doCompletely normal. Chasing her out makes the hiding worse and longer
Litter box avoidance, going just beside the trayCall meOften a dirty tray or stress, sometimes urinary. Worth a conversation before it becomes a habit

The litter maths nobody writes down

The rule shelters and behaviourists use is one box per cat plus one spare, in separate locations. For a single cat that means two trays, not one, and it is the most common thing missing from a home a sitter walks into. A cat who has been coping with a marginal setup while you are there to scoop twice a day will stop coping when scooping drops to once.

Two more details worth a line each: keep water away from food, because many cats will not drink next to where they eat, and say whether the tray is covered. A covered tray that has not been cleaned traps odour, and a cat who finds it unpleasant simply goes elsewhere.

When a sitter is the wrong answer

Drop-in visits suit most adult cats better than boarding does, and there are exceptions worth being honest about before you book.

A cat who needs insulin at fixed hours is not a once-a-day-visit cat, and a sitter covering four other homes cannot promise 8am. A cat recovering from surgery, or one who has recently stopped eating for any reason, needs someone who will notice on the first missed meal rather than the second. And a kitten under about six months is a two-visits-a-day animal at minimum — they eat more often, get into more, and dehydrate faster than an adult.

If any of those describe your cat, the honest options are more frequent visits, a sitter who stays over, or a vet practice that boards medical cases. Not a cheaper schedule.

Frequently asked

How long can a cat be left with a sitter checking in once a day?

Many adult cats do fine with one solid daily visit, but it depends on the cat. Kittens, seniors, and cats on medication usually need two visits. When in doubt, more frequent check-ins are safer.

Should I tell the sitter about a shy cat?

Absolutely. Write that the cat will hide, where, and when it usually reappears. It prevents a sitter from panicking or chasing the cat, both of which make hiding worse.

What is the most-missed item on a cat brief?

Litter detail. People write feeding carefully and then leave litter as "scoop it." Specify the box location, litter type, scooping frequency, and where spares are.